![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Jimmy-Landry-Sound-Cloud-21.jpg\" "\\"Jimmy")
<\/a>Just as important as having a killer DAW such as SONAR X1\u00a0Production Suite\u00a0<\/a>64bit running on a good machine, one needs to take a good hard look at their recording and mixing environment.\u00a0 If you are starting to get to the point where the word \u201cprofessional\u201d (as in making some money) comes into play, you should probably start to think about your sonic room environment as well as your environment\u2019s presentation.<\/p>\nThe beauty of the music industry today is that you CAN make extra money as a part time job utilizing tools such as SONAR, but there comes a point in time where you need to step it up if you have what it takes to succeed on certain levels.\u00a0 In my personal situation, as a writer\/mixer\/producer I take on some decent paying side jobs once in a while when time permits such as recent tracks that I sold to ESPN Sports center, but I can tell you that if I didn’t have SONAR X1 Producer Expanded<\/a> and a decent mixing environment, there\u2019s no way I would have been able to deliver those tracks.<\/p>\n In the upcoming weeks I am going to be talking about, as well as be demonstrating how I recently treated my new music studio room with great looking acoustic treatment panels.\u00a0 I built all the custom panels myself so it cost me a fraction of what it would have been to order these panels online; and in my opinion they look better because I elected to design them with exposed natural wood where the cheap ones online are just basically fabric-wrapped.<\/p>\n The three types of panels I built which will be discussed on this blog were wall traps, corner traps and sound clouds.\u00a0 Today I will go into detail on how I built the sound cloud that goes over my mix position. Before I go into any detail, I need to state that these are not direct instructions on \u201chow to\u201d build acoustic panels.\u00a0 I am simply showing you how I built mine, and if you care to attempt to build your own, you are responsible for how you use this information to build and install these panels on your own and AT YOUR OWN RISK. \u00a0The bottom line is that neither Cakewalk nor I are in any way responsible for how you use this information.\u00a0 I’m not claiming in any way to be an expert on this matter.\u00a0 I simply did some research, talked to a lot of trusted friends, and then went for it.\u00a0 Also, I did use some basic power tools as well as hand tools that I will recommend, so if you are uncomfortable using tools please seek help from a professional.<\/span><\/p>\n The best case scenario is that you have a rectangular room with moderately high ceilings and then you can set up your mix position shooting down the length of the room.\u00a0 Worst case scenario (as in mine) is that you have a square (or close to square) room and then you have to look at everything else > Where is (are) the door(s)? \u00a0Where are the windows? \u00a0How high are the ceilings? \u00a0What\u2019s the flooring material? What furniture is in the room? In my case, I have a dead square room with 7\u2019 3\u201d ceilings which is not a great scenario.\u00a0 In a room like this, it is most important to knock out as many corners of the room as possible which is what I did, and then find the points of first reflection.<\/p>\n The easiest way to do this if you have a person that can help you is to sit in your mix position and have that person run a mirror along the right wall at the height of the speaker cone.\u00a0 When you see your left speaker in that mirror that is roughly the point of first sound reflection.\u00a0 You can do the same for the other side of the wall.\u00a0 You can also do this for the ceiling if you want to be exact.<\/p>\n In terms of where my speakers sit, from the professional advice that I got from Gavin Haverstick of Haverstick Designs, he told me that with my 13\u2019 7\u201d x 13\u2019 7\u201d room my mix position should be about 62\u201d off the front wall.<\/p>\n For my sound cloud here were my goals:<\/p>\n <\/a> –\u00a0 Inexpensive<\/p>\n –\u00a0 As close to professional looking as possible<\/p>\n –\u00a0 Easy(-ish) to install<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n *The exact materials I used for making and installing one sound cloud panel were (estimated costs since I used these materials for multiple panels):<\/strong><\/p>\n –\u00a0 Screws – Fine Thread Drywall screws by GripRite 6 x 2\u201d 5.08cm [8], Cost: $.96<\/p>\n –\u00a0 Fabric – CASTIELLE ACOUSTIC SUEDE (key;-)<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0FABRIC BY THE YARD, Cost: $5.96 (1 panel) \u00a0<\/p>\n –\u00a0 Wrapping for back of panel- Home Depot paper-throw tarp, Cost: $1:39 (1 panel)<\/p>\n – Screw Hooks [size: #8]-\u00a0 Zinc plated by Crown Bolt [8], Cost: $2.24<\/p>\n – Knauf Insulation 4\u2019 x2\u2019 (#3 \u2013 same specs as Owens Corning 703)- <\/a>Cost: $7.50<\/p>\n – Staples- Cost: $.25<\/p>\n – Thin Hanging Chain- Cost: \u00a0$.72<\/p>\n – 2-inch C-clamps- Cost: $1.63<\/p>\n – All-In-One<\/p>\n – Polyurethane\/Stain- Cost: $.82<\/p>\n – Wood Glue- Cost: $.12<\/p>\n ***Total Cost for Materials per panel: $23.57<\/p>\n Tools Used:<\/strong><\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Pro-grade hand-staple gun<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0\u00bc\u201d staples<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Power saw (I used a miter saw but one could use any saw power or other)<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Screw gun (coupled as a drill)<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Hammer<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0File or sand paper<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Stain brush<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Knee pads<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Rubber work gloves<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Measuring tape<\/p>\n –\u00a0\u00a0Pliers with a cutting feature for the chain<\/p>\n At this point you will have the frame built.\u00a0 If it\u2019s not completely symmetric don\u2019t worry \u2013 that\u2019s what the c-clamps are for later as you connect three of these together.<\/p>\n It seems like a lot of work but it\u2019s actually not too bad once you get the hang of it; I found it fun and quite therapeutic actually.\u00a0 If you wanted 4\u201d thick panels (4\u201d might be a better solution if you have a bigger room,) you can use this same method but use 4\u201d wide pine, and make sure you secure it properly from the ceiling as they will be much heavier.\u00a0 \u201cI\u201d see some imperfections in the panels, but I keep telling myself that no one will notice those, but they sure as heck would notice a difference in my mixes if these clouds were not over my head.\u00a0<\/p>\n I had my wall panels and corner traps up around my room and things were sounding pretty good.\u00a0 The sound cloud was the last thing that went\u00a0up and the first thing\u00a0I threw on was Z3TA+ 2\u00a0from the SONAR X1 Production Suite.\u00a0 Instantly I could hear and feel a major difference for the better.\u00a0 It just seemed like things were more balanced and in control.\u00a0 So first, get yourself upgraded to SONAR X1 <\/a>or pick up the new SONAR X1 Production Suite <\/a>which includes SONAR X1 Producer, SONAR X1 Producer Expanded, PC4K S-Type Expander \/ Gate ProChannel Module, and Z3TA+ 2 waveshaping synthesizer, and\u00a0THEN get your room tuned up.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Square-Mixing-room-before-treatment-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Square")
<\/a>First things were first; I took a look at the dimensions of\u00a0my room and set up\u00a0my speakers and mix position.\u00a0 Keep in mind that setting up a home studio is all about accepting the fact that you most likely will never have \u201cperfect\u201d environment.\u00a0 The key is to realize what your goals are, and then weigh all those against each other to get what you want out of the room to make it a best-working-environment [for you].\u00a0 You can drive yourself crazy trying to crunch math formulas and read every theory out there, but unless you are building a room front scratch you might be wasting your time over-thinking everything because there are so many variables involved on how sound waves react in a room.\u00a0<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0699-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Jimmy")
<\/a>–\u00a0 Must be light because I was not going to be able to tap into joists in the ceiling for support<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Sound-Cloud-Materials1-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Sound")
<\/a>–\u00a0 Wood- Furring strips from Home Depot (8\u2019 x 3\u201d x .75\u201d) [2], Cost: $1.98<\/p>\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Screws-for-sound-cloud-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Screws")
<\/a>he 2\u2019 pieces are going to attach to the ends of the 4\u2019 pieces with the screws, so place one end of the 4\u2019 piece up against a corner of a wall for stability so that it is coming up diagonally, and align a 2\u2019 piece to the end (the other end of the 2\u2019 piece will be touching the ground to stabilize). (This would be much easier if you have someone to help.)\u00a0 Lay down a small strip of wood glue at the end of the 4\u2019 piece which will help to hold it in place while you drill the first screw in through the 2\u2019 piece into the 4\u2019 piece to make a 90 degree angle with the two pieces.\u00a0 Drill the first screw into the top (left or right) of the 2\u2019 board so that it connects to the end of the 4\u2019 piece.\u00a0 You must go very slow drilling this in so that you don\u2019t crack the wood.\u00a0 The screws are just thin enough so that you should not have a problem. Drill another screw in the same way but on the opposite side of the 2\u2019 board.\u00a0 Once you have these two in, the unit is stable to make it easier for the rest of the pieces to be screwed together.<\/li>\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0706-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Staple")
<\/a>STAPLE IN THE FABRIC: \u00a0This part in important (and can be tricky) and it may take a minute to get it right.\u00a0 Lay the frame down the flat way on a clean flat surface.\u00a0 Drape the fabric into the frame so that the edges of the fabric are over the edges of the frame.\u00a0 Aim the staple gun down so that the head is flat with the ground and insert one staple into a corner of one of the 4\u2019pieces.\u00a0 Gently pull the fabric along the 4\u2019 piece (the long way) and continue with staples about every 6 inches.\u00a0 Once you have one side with staples, go over to the other side and again start in a corner.\u00a0 Pull the fabric toward you to make it as tight as you can without ripping staples out from the other side, and continue down the length of the 4\u2019 board.\u00a0 Next, go to one of the 2\u2019 corners and start stapling with the same method.\u00a0 (The goal is to make the fabric tight without it ripping out from the staples \u2013 you will get a feel for it.)\u00a0 Stapling the last 2\u2019 piece will be what tightens up the fabric.\u00a0 Once you have finished the parameter, go back to the first 4\u2019 board and staple in between all the staples while continuously pulling the fabric as tight as possible.\u00a0 (Be careful not to staple the fabric too close to the front of the panel depending on what staple gun you use.\u00a0 I would test it first with a few staples and adjust where you fire as needed.)<\/li>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Staple-tarp-to-back-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Staple")
<\/a>STAPLE THE BACKING FABRIC: \u00a0Since I made a total of 18 panels for my room, I decided to cut costs by using a different fabric for the back of the panels to secure the insulation from leaking any fibers.\u00a0 It is much easier to wrap the whole insulation panel in one piece of fabric if cost is not an issue for you.\u00a0 If you choose to use a cheaper fabric for the back, just staple it in around the perimeter of the back of the panel. \u00a0You don\u2019t have to be as cautious as it\u2019s the back side which will ultimately be facing your ceiling.\u00a0 You do not need to pull this very tight either.<\/li>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/screw-in-screw-hooks-150x150.jpg\" "\\"screw")
<\/a>SCREW IN THE SCREW-HOOKS:\u00a0 These panels are exactly 25.5\u201d wide so I decided to have my screws go in at the 8.5\u201d marks on the 2\u2019 pieces to make it symmetrical (There will be 3 lined up side by side.)\u00a0 With a small drill bit, drill starting holes in at the 8.5\u201d marks of each 2\u2019 piece (on the back side and in the center of the edge) and then screw in the screw-hooks so there are a total of 4 hooks in the panel on the back side.<\/li>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Ceiling-pilot-holes-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Ceiling")
<\/a>means you probably hit a joist which is one of the supporting beams for the ceiling.\u00a0 You do not need ceiling anchors if you go directly into a beam.\u00a0 If you have any doubt, or you are in a room where you are unsure of what is above your ceiling, you should seek a professional to help you install the panels.<\/li>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Hang-Chains-from-Hooks-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Hang")
<\/a>UT TWO EVEN PIECES OF CHAIN SO THAT YOU HAVE 12 LINKS OR SO BOTH EQUALING 12\u201d.\u00a0 This depends on how low you want the cloud and how high your ceilings are.\u00a0 I hung my cloud so that it angles up and away from the speakers.\u00a0 I did this because it\u2019s what I remember from all the studios I have mixed in, and I saw clouds like this in pictures as well when I did the research.\u00a0 So above my speakers the cloud hangs 2.5\u2019 above and where my ear is the cloud is about 3.5 feet away.\u00a0 Hang each chain piece from the screw-hooks in the ceiling.<\/li>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/c-clamps-to-join-panels-150x150.jpg\" "\\"c")
<\/a>Here is the Grand Finale: Repeat these steps with two more panels \u2013 one to the left, and one to the right.\u00a0 Most likely when you are finished they will look uneven or won\u2019t be joined perfectly, that\u2019s when the \u201cc-clamps\u201d come into play.\u00a0 On a step ladder, maneuver your way so that you can clamp the back part of the center and left panels together (TOP, facing the ceiling) and then do the same for the front half of the panel on the back side.\u00a0 (Do not fasten too tightly.)\u00a0 Now c-clamp the other panel with the other side of the center panel and it should be close to perfect.\u00a0 You also may have to adjust a few links to even it out by eye.\u00a0 The furring strips (wood) are really light so they may not be truly straight but hey, they were .97 cents each and you should not have to mount massive ceiling brackets to hold the weight.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Acoustic-wall-panels-150x150.jpg\" "\\"Acoustic")
<\/a>Thanks for reading and join me again here soon as I dive into the corner traps and then the wall panels.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"![<\/a>](\"https:\/\/noelborthwick.com\/cakewalk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/Jimmy-Landry-Sound-Cloud-2.jpg\"){kind=link}